Friday, 31 July 2009

Charles Taylor Rapping


While Charles Taylor tries to fight off prosecutors at The Hague, back home in Monrovia, Charles Phillip Taylor fights to keep his rhymes fresh.

Pictured above in the living room under a painting of his father and mother - senior senator, and former First Lady of Liberia, Jewel Howard Taylor - Phillip, aka Bent Man, has a lot to talk about.

With a father facing war crimes, a brother (Chucky Taylor, also a rapper) sentenced to 97 years in a US prison, and a life growing up as the son of a rebel leader come president of a war torn country, Bent Man's life is a unique one. He is intelligent, well spoken, and not afraid to talk about his unique experiences in person, or in his music.

Liberia is not exactly the ideal place to spring a rap career. And its not exactly what Charles Sr. had in mind. But as Phillip explains, as his dad taught him, when you got something that you believe in, you gotta follow it. No matter what.


Phillip Taylor, aka Bent Man: watch for it.

Signage - MJ Beauty



Apologies first of all for the horrific framing - it was raining, and I was en route to dropping people off at the airport.

Nonetheless, a few points of awesomeness remain. For example, the bottom line reads "Things can never be the same way he use to be". Also that like many such establishments, its called a beauty saloon. And just because its MJ, and who wouldn't want to be as beautiful as him.

Endnotes:
1)Due to this earlier post about a proposed Jackson 5/Slavery theme park in Nigeria, my traffic spiked like mad in the wake of the passing of the king, when everyone was googling him like it was their jobs (perhaps because no one has jobs?!?).
2) Liberia's epilogue for MJ: That man could DANCE!!, ohhh!!? (high pitch implied in final squeal)

Thursday, 23 July 2009

Not Dead!


Email rumours that yet again I fell sick, injured or worse, that I gave up on the internet, or have been yelling at surfers (yo – whoever wrote that, I laughed but I don’t know why), can all be quelled.

Above is a hint – a surface scratcher if you will – as to my whereabouts during the free time I usually use for blogging. Hopefully it confirms that the commitment of this blog to a unique form of espionage remains strong, despite recent drops in productivity. Details will emerge in the coming months.

(note: I am taking that picture, not in it)

Official blogging shall re-commence soonly.

Friday, 10 July 2009

Gettin' By - With Changing Money


This is part of a series called 'Gettin' By', about the informal job sector in Liberia. Please read this for explanation

Profession: Moneychanger and Phonecard Vendor

Location: Street Corners, Storefronts, Money Booths

How it Works:
The existence of money changers hinges on two basic realities: a dual-currency economy and a banking system that is so slow, its not worth waiting every day to get the better rates. A small niche,but an important one.

Liberia, like many developing nations around the world, uses the US dollar, as well as its local currency, the Liberian dollar, or ‘Liberty Dollah’. Many people – myself included – are paid in US dollars, receive US dollars from overseas or run businesses that operate primarily on US. But most local goods and services officially demand the use of Liberties.

And so changing must transpire.

At the booths, its almost exclusively a US changing into Liberty racket, though they will change the other way if you want. Street changers peg their exchange rate (written on the booth in the photo as 70, which means you get 70 Liberty dollars for each US buck) so that they make 5 Liberties for every $ 5 US they trade.

Typically, this rate is made over two transactions. One, changers set the rate a few per cent higher that the rate at Central Bank by a few Liberty: if Central Bank rate is $ 67 or 68 LD, then street rate will be around 70. Fairly straightforward.

The second flip is a bit more complex, and gets into the strange business economy here. Moneychangers (or the people who run the booths) take advantage of their US dollars to buy off street vendors. Essentially, street vendors depend on Greenbacks to purchase their raw goods – toiletries, rice, used clothes, socks and underwear, food – from the Lebanese merchants who control the supply chain. But, they sell the goods for Liberty on the street, or in the small shops. So, moneychangers use USD to go around and buy up the Liberties at an inflated rate, and bring it back to their booths to sell.

For example, if changers are trading at 70, they’ll charge 71.5 - 72 to purchase USD. This is done to the tune of a $40 US here, $200 US there, etc. Small-small.

Phone cards are bought in packs of 10 for $ 47 US, and sold for $ 5 /card at money changing booths. Also available is making phone calls on trader’s phone (in lieu of no pay phones), transferring money ($US 1 - 2) onto phones, and occasionally other services like loaning, or buying petty goods they have lying around (see plastic bags hanging top right photo, sold for $ 5 LD, or the shoe sitting on top of the box, $12US)

Money Earned: Top changers can trade up to $ 1000 US/day, meaning they make $ 1000 LD, or about $ 15/ day off that. They also sell 2 – 3 sets of phone cards, meaning another $ 10 US, maximum. This is rare though.

Some – as in many – only trade a mere $ 2 – 400 (and so earn only a $ 3 – 6 US), and sell a handful of cards, maybe $ 2 – 5 US more. Your gross depends on your commitment to hustling for connections. Knowing local business owners, and offering loans to the right people makes the biz a lot more profitable, and gives you a good local rep. All this increases your flow.

Lastly, the lowest earners are younger men that are paid a day rate by the people who supply the overhead. They usually get a flat rate $ 5 for a 12 (ish) hour day, plus limited use of phones and phone cards.

Variables and Dangers:
Holding so much money is a huge risk for so little cash. Strangely though, there are very few robberies, despite the fact that money often gets left out in the open. Changers tend to sit in pairs, or work outside businesses. This means a small, loyal army is on mutual watch, and will chase down any thief, and likely beat them senseless, or to death. That this occurs with some regularity in Liberia seems to serve as a fairly strong deterrent

Rain closes up shop for most, and sitting in the hot sun all day sucks.

Point of Reference: The cheapest cell phones in the country cost $ 35 US, and a scratch card

Tuesday, 7 July 2009

Heavy Press Conference


This picture is from a pretty intense press conference yesterday featuring some of the major players in the Liberian Civil War. All people pictured in this photo appear on the TRC's list of "Perpetrators Recommended for Prosecution" (unlike President Sirleaf, who is on the list of persons recommended to be banned from public office for 30 years).

Despite many of these men being adversaries in the war, they now stand united on one front: that the TRC is illegitimate and politically motivated. And - I think its reasonable to conclude from their statements - that they do not really want to face trial/end up in jail. Also, they state, the TRC recommendations violate the signing of the Comprehensive Peace Agreement that brought ceasefire to Liberia.

They make some valid points about the TRC's ineptitude(s). Namely that the TRC did not live up to their mandate to have alleged perpetrators meet their alleged victims,that TRC commissioners have political affiliations and that the TRC focused disproportionately on the actions of 'native boys' and not 'Americo-Liberians'.

That a few used the forum to profess their total innocence of any wrongdoing met dubious responses from local journalists. Monrovia media is chalked full of debate on the issue today.

From left to right in the above photo:

1) not sure
2) (glasses and suit) Jackson Doe, brother to ex-president Samuel Doe. Currently at Transport Ministry
3) George Dweh: Commander in both the MODEL and LURD movements, operating out of the southeast and Guinea respectively. LURD eventually forced Taylor from office in 2003, and Dweh is currently a politician
4)Thomas Yaya Nimely: Head of MODEL, and the apparent spokesman for the group.
5)Lewis Brown: Foreign Minister under Taylor, active member of Taylor's National Patriotic Party (NPP)
6)Sando Johnson: Taylor's first cousin and a former representative of the house.
7) George Dolo: Former field commander for Taylor's NPFL
8) Prince Johnson: Not pictured because he arrived late, when pictures became difficult. Led INPFL, a breakoff of Taylor's NPFL. He appears in a 1990 video where then-president Samuel K. Doe is tortured to death by his bodyguards. He took the seat next to Jackson Doe.

If Sekou Conneh was not in jail, I wonder if he would have attended said conference.

Saturday, 4 July 2009

TRC Recommends

Despite giving out reports at a raucous press conference, and putting the report online, today is the last official day that edits can be made to the 330-odd page behemoth.

Reactions are mixed, and for good reason. President Sirleaf highlights a list of people recommended to not run for office for the next 30 years. This will be sticky, as most concur that she aspires to another term when this one expires in 2011.

Joshua Milton Blahyi, formerly General Butt Naked, was the most intriguing appearance on the 'perpetrators not recommended for prosecution'. Blahyi and others on this list were thought by both commissioners and other stakeholders to have come forward, spoken truthfully about their actions, shown remorse to victims, made sincere apologies and helped the country to move forward.

For whatever its worth, I highly support this set of recommendations.

As for those recommended, it was not a big shock that Prince Johnson topped the list - not even to him. But, as I point out in this article, Johnson makes some solid points about how the TRC can't follow this through. Plus, in an interview with him right after the report came out, he reminded numerous times that all of these recommendations have to make it through parliament.

And, of course, there is the issue of who exactly will foot the bill for a court, if it happens.

Many criticize this last list for focusing exclusively on the 'native boys' - indigenous Liberians - and not at all on the 'congos', or 'Americo-Liberians', descendants of freed American slaves who 'founded' the country in the early-mid 1800's. Thus exacerbating some of the racial/ethnic problems that started the war.

It is likely that raucous will continue for a while surrounding this.

Will be interesting to see what Ellen will say in public about her newest obstacle, and when she will address it.

I just noticed that Glenna has a great article about this up on her blog, that was published in Time.

Signage - PIGS


This one cracked me up from the beginning. Its too perfect.

The only thing better than the actual sign itself, is that one night, walking by there at dusk, laughing to myself about the acronym, someone called out of the darkeness (in an incredulous, almost 'guessing' tone): "CHuccckkk....noRISS?!?"

My eternal connection to 'Walker Texas Ranger' makes PIGS even more special.

Wednesday, 1 July 2009

Gettin' By - With Coconuts


This post is part of the series 'Gettin' By'. Read this for explanation.

Profession: Coconut Seller

Location: Roaming

How it works: Coconuts come to Monrovia packed into trucks and cars from villages all around the country. The outer husks have been hacked off with machetes, to reduce size and weight. Sellers are generally old women, who carry up to 25 or 30 on their head (which is psycho heavy), or young men who can carry up to 80 in wheelbarrows.

Every seller carries a machete, allowing them to split the coconuts for anyone who stops them as they walk through the streets. They wait patiently as buyers drink, split the coconut to access the meat, take the empty shell, and move on.

Cash: Street sellers buy them wholesale for around $10 LD ($0.14 US), or '2 for 15' [$LD] at spots around the city. Coconuts generally retail for $20 LD. Meaning that to make a dollar, 7 coconuts must be sold - roughly 15 pounds of weight.

Variables and Dangers: Insanely sore neck, machete wounds.

Net Profit: For female sellers, they rarely earn $ 5 US /load. Some will take more than one load per day, but it is rare, as they often have families to tend to, and business can be slow.

Wheelbarrow men can earn over $10 US/day, but this kind of profit demands a 10 hour day.

Point of Reference:
used T-shirt sold on the street costs $ 1 - 3 US

New Development on the Esteyonage

After getting a new bout of offline comments about it, I was galvanized to action.

You can now comment anonymously here, but your comments must be approved. By me.

I did not know how to do it previously, so sorry if you have been dying to speak, but wish not to share your name.

werd