..Like a Monrovian Sewer

A 1 hour-ish downpour mid-afternoon last week signaled the unofficial start to rainy season. It also brought the unsavoury smell lodged beneath Gurley Street to my nostrils. Rank, fetid, putrid: all adjectives I would use to describe it, were I offered the literary license.

Everyone lamented the fact that soon, as the rains increase through August, that smell would be a constant, along with the murky pools filling the streets, and swirling down the clogged drains. "All the sewers are backed up. They can't drain." Classic Liberian resignment to tough living conditions, served with a a casual shrug.

I was depressed just thinking that, come July, wading through banana peels floating on a turbid sea of brown and green pockmarks would be my daily routine.

But, low and behold, sewer cleaners took to the streets in droves only days later, harnessing an assortment of semi-tools to unclog said sewers around Monrovia. I have worked some dirty jobs, including as a garbage man. But this is truly next level. Please note the blackness of sludge, and think about the numerous things that have turned it that colour since 'aging' below the concrete since the last sewer cleaning, 5 years ago.

The guys pictured here have been cool with letting me hang with them as they deal with the blockages at Benson and Gurley for the cool rate of around $5/day.

Great benefits package though, surely.

Some Liberian Stats

Two numerical pieces of interest that I came across regarding Liberia over the past few days that took a little more 'registration time' than average (that is, time to register.)

According to Oxfam's Caroline Pearce, but quoted in this IRIN article,

“Were Liberia to devote its entire government budget to primary education, it would still spend only US$220 per child versus the United States’s current $9,138.”

According to a friend who is adept with numbers, and has access to relevant numbers:

If Liberia were to experience a 7% growth in GDP every year for the next 15 years, they would have an economy similar to (wait for it)... Laos

Mysterious New Building Baffles Monrovians

Walking back from a completely unrelated story, this structure came into view. It only seemed vaguely familiar, despite having passed the intersection so many times (Tubman and 17th).

I asked my fellow pedestrian what such an upscale, slick, sleek building was doing in such a town as Monrovia. She said she had no idea. And, in fact, that no one had any clue.

Rumours abound.

I said something to the effect of “don’t you think its strange that in a country where the majority live on less than a dollar a day, and where functional buildings are greatly outnumbered by burned out ones, and those again by shanty-town dwellings, an obviously expensive building with no signs, and no understanding of what purpose it serves can just emerge without any public knowledge of what it actually is?” (Yes, it was just that eloquent)

Regardless of my actual sentence, she agreed it was all a bit strange.

No one working near the site could answer our questions.

Her suggestion: show a bunch of people the picture I took and see what happened.

So….some highlights:

“I think it’s a recording studio. For hip hop, you know, rap.”

“Muammar Gaddaffi and his son built it” [Col. G has a lot of sway around here]

“Sometimes people come in and out of there, but I’m not sure why”

"It got built with Charles Taylor's money.”

“George Weah [former Inter Milan superstar striker, and loser in the 2005 presidential run-off with Sirleaf] will use it when he becomes president.”

“No one owns it.”

Any other input welcome

Sorry Sudan!

well. I guess I was wrong in my last post, and/or missed the memo.

"the BBC considers Egypt, Morocco, Sudan and Tunisia Middle Eastern countries. A lot of sources cite many north African countries as being Middle Eastern."

After writing that post, I vaguely recalled hearing about a fairly nonsensical press conference where American Special Envoy to Southwest Asia and the Gulf Denis Ross was unable to clarify the geographic parameters of the region his job covered.

This somewhat embellished transcript of said conference in February, is scarily not too far off the real deal. But good for a fearful laugh.

But my apologies Sudan: you can belong to whatever region you wish.

BBC Remaps the World?

While this article is mildly interesting in and of itself, its the geographic category BBC gave it that caught my eye.

When did Sudan join The Middle East?

Did I miss a memo?

Maybe just because it has a large Muslim population?

Curious

Earth Day Pondering

There is a question that I have been toying with a lot. And Earth Day seems an appropriate time to raise it.

Is a global recession good or bad for the environment?

My thoughts summarized:

Good:
In general, when people get tight for cash, they consume less. This becomes even more so when they become unemployed, laid off, or what have you. That means less food, less gas, 'don't turn on the air conditioning honey, we can't afford it!', less useless junk. Less resources consumed is the general point there.

People find ways to get on less, and demand for resources invariably means a gross decrease in carbon produced, chemicals used, pollutants leeched and so on.


Bad:
But on the flip side of this, priorities towards environmental awareness tend to drop when financial worries increase. Despite the fact that 'low-impact living' can be the cheapest way to live, in a Western context, such 'low impact products' tend to come at a premium: biodegradable soap, glass drink containers, hybrid cars (etc) tend to cost significantly more than their 'normal' cousins. And, switching to more efficient appliances, furnaces, cars etc has a big start up cost that people are hesitant to spend, even if the long term means net savings.


In a Liberian context, its pretty hard to say how things will play out. Pres. Sirleaf has publicly joined the international leaders who say that climate change is real. That may seem pretty pedestrian, but that puts in her in a minority of African leaders for sure. And besides, there are a few other problems here that she has to deal with.

But, where power runs mainly off diesel generators at people's homes or businesses, cars invariably spew insane amounts of black exhaust, and charcoal cooks almost all meals, there is a lot of room for improvement.

And, at such a stage of rebuilding, Liberia, the UN and other donors have the ability to build an infrastructure that harnesses some the endless renewable energy the country has.

But, will this happen during a global recession?

Area Man Found Out of Area

Liberia experienced a major tourist boom last week when a successful Toronto lawyer opted to spend almost one full week in Liberia. Despite its war-zone perception by international governments, Wilfred Estey, a co-founder of the founder of ‘The Esteyonage,’ was said to have engaged in such normal activities as hiking, swimming, shopping, taking posed photographs and dining out.

“That is downright impossible, they are in civil war!” (note: war actually ended 2003) yelled Estey’s co-worker William Esquire (Esq.) when Wilfred announced the trip, an extension to a planned vacation with his wife. “What do you have, a death wish?!? You better have written a will!” he screamed.

Esquire added on the sly that it could be arranged if he hadn’t already.

“I am amazed at how friendly everyone is,” Estey repeated hundreds of times during this week. “Even the bribes, the police scams, the tire guys increasing the price every two minutes to fix our flat... its all so friendly...and fun!”

And this kind of 'fun in the sun' is just what the government has been hoping for, as part of its Poverty Reduction Strategy (PRS).

“We have noted a serious increase in the tourist economy at the start of the year’s second quarter - one visitor. This is great news,” stated a very senior Liberian tourism official of the visit. “We hope this maybe will happen at least one more time this year. Maybe even twice,” he added with an optimistic smile. “Next year, we might even get into the double digits.”

Plans are already being made to house these anticipated guests.

Well over a week later, people remained shocked, but stoked on the sighting, and continue to question this man’s whereabouts.

“Myles, your dad, he was here,” stated a co-worker matter of factly, shaking my hand. “He came to see Liberia, he went back. Did he love it?”

“Your popp-ee, he has returned with safety?” asked another with concern.

“Oh yes, good,” was the general response to the news of his safe return.

News, however, that his return included freezing rain, sleet and snow were met with blank stares, followed eventually by nervous, confused laughs, and dismissive handshakes.

Now, returned to the safety of his area, the questions began pouring in: “You went where? Do you have malaria now? You’re still alive?!?”

"Liberia, now where is that?" asked the Customs Official at Pearson Int'l Airport in Toronto, Wilfred relayed by email interview. "Now why on earth would anyone wanna go there?" she retorted upon learning its locale.

Area man Wilfred Estey is now reported to have fallen seamlessly back into the work/life routine of his area, though forever changed.

Ode to Surfing (and me)

Peeking out from in front of La Ticla, Mex. DeWolfe's winter home for 7 years, and, slightly ahead of Cox Bay, my most surfed locale.
Shot: Adam DeWolfe - wwww.adamdewolfe.com

Amongst other arguably more 'important' things, I have a very strong love for waves that curl at or around the lip, then continue to peel off my 'bow,'in either a port or starboard direction. In particular when I can stand up on them, and carve a little piece of fiberglass and foam all around around them.

After more than 15 months on the disabled list, pining for such a wave I have almost a month of rekindled love under my belt. Consistently mediocre conditions just north of Monrovia be damned!

I can't wait to take a month, and only surf. All day, every day. But alack.

In other news (the aforementioned' ode to me'), a long anticipated article appears as a 6-page feature in this issue of SBC Surf, which friend Malcolm Johnson serves as editor of. Its a great publication, with more to offer than just surf blather.

The idea for the article came from numerous conversations over several years with my good friend, photographer Adam Dewolfe, in one of the two worlds we operated in: the dirty existence of hard labour in Canada's northern boreal forests and the tropical bliss of living/surfing out of our vans in Mexico.

Me, Bobber, Masey, Yo, Tatti, plenty others, and especially DeWolfe, were splitting our lives between these disparate existences. It was fun while it lasted, and the article is a pretty dope way to memorialize some crazy awesome years.

For some of us, at least...

To all those people who never got coherent answers regarding my life 'up there,' maybe it will help a little?!?

The article is not up on their site, as it is a feature, but if you have the interest, you should buy the magazine!

(more Liberian/Afro-centric posts to follow)


Me and some buds, August 2004, deeply embedded in Alberta's muddy forests.

Gals

Robertsport was a beautiful fishing village, with a few posh resorts designed for upper class Monrovians to come boogey on weekends. It got decimated by the war, and is now slowly coming back to life. (thanks, partially, to incredible surfing)

A hill rises up directly behind the town, scattered with ruined old houses, new makeshift houses, and at the very top, a maroon church with broken windows looking out onto the town and across the Atlantic.

These four images were found inside the church. Despite my love of found things, my irreligionespecially photos, justifying thievery in a church - and one that survived a war no less - felt wrong. Taking a picture didn't.

Most photos said something to the effect of "Congratulations to little Francis."

Somalia Pirating vs British Legend

Has anyone else been bouncing around the idea of comparing the new phenomenon of Somali Pirates to Robin Hood?

After all, many observers label Somalia a failed state, or at best describe it - and/or Somaliland, an autonomous region not recognized by anyone - as a lawless place plagued by corruption, poverty and lack of government.

I'm not saying that they are right in doing so, but when some fat old ships waddle down the Gulf of Aden, carrying millions and millions of dollars in cargo and you have a nation where thousands die of malnutrition and curable diseases (amongst other things)... Lets just say the "robbing from the rich and giving to the poor" maxim is not too far off.

Informed observers may refute this connection by pointing to the fact that pirates are amongst the most well off in Somalia, as this article does.

But Mr. Hood always seemed a little more privileged than those around him, no?


ps If you have never copped Sublime's "Robbin the Hood" album, git on it....

The Titanic Sets Sail - or Sinks

In the foreground is Jefferson. From 7 - 5, he takes the large rocks directly behind him, and pounds them with a hammer until they are the size of the piles of small rocks over his right shoulder. Although a bit vague on specifics, I think he makes around $ 5/day for this. This does not go as far as you would think in Liberia, but in the same breath, its better than average.

The Titanic is the burned-out behemoth in the background. Sometime around 2000, former members of Charles Taylor's NPFL started to take up residence in what was intended to be the New Health Ministry. With nowhere else to go, they stuck around. Now, the Chinese embassy says they are ready to rebuild, which means that the 600 or so piled into small rooms must go.

I was there a few weeks ago with a local reporter. As usual, quite unlike the rumours, everyone was mellow, friendly and welcoming. The system was orderly: residents reported any issues to floor managers, who discuss amongst themselves and with a mayor-like figure, and resolve what they could. A highly participatory democratic system decided who could, and who could not, stay in the building. (Based on quality of citizen, need for shelter, and level of responsibility; not racial or ethnic heritage)


A family of five sleepts in this room, arguably the nicest in the place.

All residents were accepting of the fact that government wanted to continue rebuilding, and said they will happily move on when asked. According to all accounts, they were nothing but cooperative when government officials provided them with a few dollars, and sent them on their way last month.

Personally, I get a little sad that driving past 'The Titanic' no longer means seeing tons of people buzzing around, standing on the roof, or cooking on the balconies of the pagoda-inspired concrete structure.

I know its for the best. I just have a soft spot for squatters.


A hilarious, boisterous, and beautiful young girl: not what you were thinking when you heard the term 'Liberian squatter'?

The No Address, Address

Definitely one of my favourite things here is shaping up to be my address. Or lack there of.

Example:

(Insistently): "My man, you got to write yo address-o"
me: well, I don't really have one
(more insistently): "just write where you live man"
me (contemplating the discussion of how fruitless this is, but resigning myself again to, writing this again after a somewhat dejected): "siggh..."

Myles Estey
21st Street
Behind Fiamah Market
Monrovia, Liberia

That vagueness somehow suffices all the demands, and brings smile back into the equation.

Not surprisingly, there is no delivery postal service in Liberia.